Cycling & Camping on Skye : Portree – Staffin was the first day of five days cycling on my seven day trip to Skye. I travelled to and from Skye on days one and seven.
The trip took place between Wed. 7 Jun. 2023 and Tues, 13 Jun. 2023.
I cycled this route on Thurs, 8 June 2023.
In all my previous cycling tours in Scotland I had used hotels and B & B’s as a place to stay at night time. However, Skye is extremely popular with tourists so I was unable to get the bookings I needed for this tour.
Therefore I had planned the route to cycle from campsite to campsite around Skye.
Portree Parking
On a trip to Skye in April 2023 I had investigated a few possibilities for long term parking in Portree. I wanted somewhere I could park my car for 7 days so that I could tour around the island on my bike.
I eventually went into the Tourist Office and they advised me that I could get a one month permit for the Bayfield West car park for £11.00. This is a large car park just off the Main Street in Portree.
They sent me this link to allow me to arrange the parking :
https://www.highland.gov.uk/info/20006/parking_and_car_parks/215/parking_permits/4
A few days before the start of my trip I clicked on this link and paid for a one month parking permit. It is a paperless permit. The parking wardens can tell by the car’s number plate that a one moth permit has been paid for.
Portree Campsite
The Portree campsite is actually about 1.5 miles outside Portree. From the Bayfield West car park I turned right and followed the main street round past the harbour then continued on the road up and round to the right. It was then a steady climb on the road out of Portree until I reached the campsite on the right.
The campsite was fine with a large grassy area for tents, as well as many pitches for motor homes. I had booked a pitch in advance but there were plenty of spaces available for tents.
I pitched my tent with the opening facing the hills in the distance so that I had a good view. It was a warm sunny afternoon and the views were magnificent.
Cycling & Camping on Skye : Portree - Staffin
- Route Map
Cycling & Camping on Skye : Portree - Staffin
- My Timings & Distances
Left Portree campsite 9.25 / Old Man of Stor 10.15 – 12.40 (5.99) / Lunch at snack bar across the road 12.45 – 1.30 / Viewpoint at An Leth-allt Falls 2.05 – 2.35 (11.12) / Staffin campsite 3.20 (15.80).
(The figures in brackets are the cumulative miles from the start of the route.)
Cycling & Camping on Skye : Portree - Staffin
- log
I got up early, hoping to to get away between 8.30 – 9.00. However, firstly a Belgian cyclist stopped to chat for about 5 minutes. Then the site warden came by and chatted for about 10 minutes. He and his wife were keen cyclists and he told me they cycled on the EuroVelo routes in France each year. Finally, a French couple who were cyclists called me over for a chat.
I enjoyed chatting to these other cyclists. This is one of the benefits of camping compared to staying in hotels. As a result I didn’t leave the campsite until 9.25.
When I left the weather was good with high white clouds in the sky, patches of blue sky and it was warm.
I had planned for today to be a short day’s cycling as I wanted to spend some time at the rocky pinnacle called the Old Man of Stor and the cliffs at the Kilt Rock.
These visitor attractions are in the area in the north-east of the island called Trotternish.
The Old Man of Stor
After cycling for just 6 miles and for less than an hour I came to the large car park and toilets at the start of the walk to the Old Man of Stor.
It was just as well that I planned a short cycling day today as the walk to and from the Old Man of Stor takes around 2 hours, which I hadn’t been aware of. This is outlined in the information board at the start of the walk, as shown below.
The walk up to the Old Man of Stor
It had turned out to be a nice, warm, sunny day and I had allowed plenty of time today so I decided to do the 2.75 mile walk.
It was quite a stiff climb, with boulder steps in places, but that didn’t put off the many tourists who were climbing up and down the path all morning.
The wide circular path that leads up to the Old Man of Stor is shown below.
Shown below is the view of the Old Man of Storr from the A855 road as you approach it.
This is a close up view of the Old Man Of Star.
At the top there are some amazing rock formations.
It took me 2hrs. 20 mins. to complete the walk as I kept stopping to admire the views and to take photos. Surprisingly, I was a bit tired after the walk.
When I came down I went across the road to a snack van to see if I could get some lunch but they only did tea/coffee & cakes. I therefore had two caramel flapjacks, a packet of crisps and a carton of tea and that did me for lunch.
I lay back against a large log overlooking the bay to eat my lunch whilst enjoying the warm sunshine and admiring the views over the bay.
An Leth-allt Falls
After lunch I continued cycling along the A855 road towards Staffin looking out for the Kilt Rock car park.
When I came round a corner I saw an observation platform that I thought must be for the Kilt Rock, so I cycled into the car park there. It turned out that it was an observation platform over a gorge on the An Leth-allt river.
After viewing the gorge I walked along the path to the other end of the car park and then down to another observation point overlooking a stony beach. I ended up spending half an hour here.
Kilt Rock
Then I continued cycling along the A855 road and soon came to a car park for the Kilt Rock, but it was closed due to construction work.
I was therefore unable to view the cliffs this time, but hopefully I’ll see them the next time I visit the beautiful island of Skye.
Staffin
The Staffin campsite is just on the right before the sign for Staffin village. I had reserved a pitch in advance on the campsite.
I arrived at the campsite before 3.30 and by the time I checked in and pitched my tent, etc it was nearly 4.30. Then I had a shower, organised my panniers and walked about the site in the warm sunshine. I ended up talking for a while with the site owner, Ally.
I originally intended to go to a restaurant in the village for a meal, but Ally thought the restaurants in Staffin would be closed. The site had a basic meals service but it was closed today so Ally said he would make me scampi & chips. He delivered the meal to my tent and charged £10.00.
I had booked an electric hook-up pitch and Ally supplied the cable free of charge. I was therefore able to charge my e-bike battery and my iPhone.
Later on a Dutch guy, who was in the next pitch with his girlfriend, came over and borrowed the cable so he could charge his devices. They were touring round Skye by car.