Cycling/Camping Cairngorms/Grampians : Tomintoul – Braemar was the fourth day of a five day cycling trip around the Cairngorm and Grampian mountains.
(For details of the other days on the trip click on the following : Day 1 Pitlochry – Newtonmore; Day 2 Newtonmore – Cairngorm Mountain; Day 3 Cairngorm Mountain – Tomintoul.)
The trip took place between Mon. 4 Sep. 2023 and Fri. 13 Sep. 2023.
I cycled this route on Thurs. 7 Sep. 2023.
In all my previous cycling tours in Scotland, prior to the camping tour I did in Skye in June 2023, I had used hotels and B & B’s as a place to stay at night time.
However, I enjoyed the camping tour in Skye so I decided to continue with the camping for this tour.
Therefore I had planned the route to cycle from campsite to campsite around the Cairngorm and Grampian mountains.
Cycling/Camping Cairngorms/Grampians : Tomintoul - Braemar
- Route Map
Cycling/Camping Cairngorms/Grampians : Tomintoul - Braemar
- My Timings & Distances
Up at 6.15 / Left camp site 8.15 / Estate Office for water, etc. / Left Tomintoul 8.25 / Lecht ski area 9.25 – 9.45 (6.89) / Rested 10.20 – 10.25 / Rested at picnic area on A93 12.10 – 12.25 / Braemar 1.25 (32.22) / Gordon’s Tearoom, Braemar 1.30 – 1.55 / Braemar Caravan Park 2.10 (32.86).
Cycling/Camping Cairngorms/Grampians : Tomintoul - Braemar
- Log
I didn’t have a very good night’s sleep last night as my tent was pitched in a wild camp spot in woods in Tomintoul. I eventually only slept in fits and starts, probably because I was a bit nervous about the location of the camp spot. Although it was in the woods it was close by a road and right next to a local path through the woods.
I had the alarm on my phone set for 6.30 as today was planned to be a 41 mile day so I wanted to give myself plenty of time. As it happens I was awake at 6.15 so I just got up then.
After breakfast, which consisted as usual of a cup of tea and a fruit and nut bar, I dismantled the tent and packed my bags . I then cycled down to the Estate Office to fill my water bottles. The warden came out and we chatted for about ten minutes.
Tomintoul - The Lecht Ski Area
On my way out of Tomintoul I noticed two other possible options for camping as an alternative to camping in the woods. The first one was a small site for motorhomes with electric hook-ups. Further on there was a small site without hook-ups. The second site had a large grassy area that would have been good for tents.
The road out of Tomintoul became undulating and then it got steadily hillier as it approached the Lecht ski area.
It then passed over into the local council area of Aberdeenshire.
As expected there were then long, steep hills up to the ski centre. I had used mostly the second level of assistance on my e-bike to get me about half-way up the hills. Then I had to use the third level of assistance for a long distance to the top.
I stopped at the ski centre for a rest and to convert to shorts as it was another beautiful sunny day. To avoid sunburn I put sun cream on my face, arms and legs.
Lecht Ski Area - Braemar
After I left the ski area there was a series of some very welcome descents, including one at 20%.
I continued cycling down from the Lecht Ski Area on the A939 road. It soon became a bit hilly and then eventually it dropped down to a T-junction with the B976 road.
My original plan for today was to cycle from Tomintoul to Ballater on the A939 road and then to cycle to Braemar. However, the caravan site at Braemar didn’t take telephone or online bookings for tents. It was a first come first served basis.
On reflection, therefore, I decided that I should omit Ballater and cycle across country on the B876 to Braemar.
Cross country to Braemar
This would enable me to arrive earlier in case the site in Braemar was full and I had to find a spot to wild camp. Also, I wanted to arrive at the campsite early so that I could relax and enjoy the fine weather.
So I cut off onto the B976 road, which was a single track road. The road started off not too hilly but then it became increasingly steeper. Soon there were lots of long, steep hills. Consequently I had to use the third level of assistance from my e-bike frequently to get me up and over the hills.
Near the end of this road there was a very long and very steep series of hills. I had to stop 4 or 5 times for a rest as my knees and thighs were aching. This was in spite of the fact that I was using the third level of assistance from my e-bike
Of course there then followed an incredibly long and steep descent. I think that this was one of the stiffest climbs I’ve done and certainly one of the longest descents.
I continued down the B976 road until I reached the A93 road, where I turned right.
There had been no cafes or shops all the way down from Tomintoul where I could have stopped for lunch. Eventually I stopped at a picnic table in a lay-by on the A93 road for a rest and to eat a fruit & nut bar.
By this time I was very tired but I just kept plodding away on the final 7 miles to Braemar.
Braemar
Eventually I arrived at the busy tourist village of Braemar. As planned I arrived nice and early, at 1.25 p.m.
The caravan park was at the other end of Braemar. As I hadn’t had any lunch I decided to have a quick lunch in the village before cycling out to the caravan park.
The cafe at the start of the village was very busy. I therefore cycled to the other end of the main street and went into Gordon’s Tearoom, where I managed to get a table.
I was anxious to get to the caravan park to see if they had a tent pitch for tonight or whether I would need to look for a wild camp spot. Therefore I only had a roll and fried egg and a cup of tea. Consequently I was in and out within 25 mins.
Braemar Caravan Park
When I arrived at the caravan park it was with great relief, therefore, that I managed to get one of the last tent pitches available. This meant that I didn’t have to start looking for a wild camp spot.
Also, as I had wild camped at Tomintoul last night I hadn’t been able to charge my electronic devices. My e-bike battery was only showing two bars (20% – 40%) and the charge levels on both my iPhone and my power bank were very low. When I was checking in I asked the warden about charging electronic devices. He said they didn’t do it at reception due to PAT regulations (which was contrary to other caravan sites I’ve been on). Instead he advised that guests could charge their devices at the double socket in the information room / lounge on a first come first served basis.
The very first thing I did before pitching my tent, therefore, was to unpack my chargers for my e-bike battery and my iPhone and take them up to the lounge. Fortunately both sockets were free so I put both devices on charge. Later on in the day, once both these devices were charged, I put my power bank on charge.
I was relieved to get the devices charged, especially the e-bike battery, as I didn’t know how hilly tomorrow’s route might be.
As I had hoped I then had a very relaxing and enjoyable day.
Firstly I pitched my tent. Then I had tea and a choc bar whilst reading my book for about an hour in the warm sunshine. After this I inflated my mattress and pillow, unpacked my sleeping bag and organised my panniers, etc. Then I went for a leisurely shower. I came back and sat in the sunshine again for a while. After this it was time for an evening meal.
I had originally intended to cycle back into Braemar to get a meal in a restaurant. However, I was in relaxation mode and just couldn’t be bothered cycling back up the short hill to Braemar and then trying to find somewhere suitable to eat. I therefore just stayed in the campsite and heated up some food that I had brought with me. This consisted of cup-a-soup and a pre-cooked camp meal of sausage & beans, which I enjoyed.
After dinner I read my book for a while in the fading sunshine. I then went for a walk around the caravan site.
At 8.30 p.m. I had tea and a choc bar, but by this time it was quite dark so I had to use my head torch to read my book.
It had been a most relaxing and enjoyable, sunny day.